Morgan Moller | Photography 

Old wheels, Hi-Hats & Belgian Beer

Tuesday, March 30th, 2010

Hi gang!

Been a busy weekend last week. Trying to juggle the whole work/social life thingy, and the 50/50 balance is very thin. But I like it!

On the 27th of March, Leningrad, which is a fantastic group where a lot of my close friends play in had a concert at the Duvel Brewery. If you aren’t familiar with Duvel, hop out the door and enter any ‘big’ bar, and they’ll probably have it. It’s one of Belgium’s most famous beers, and you find it quite often.

Laurent, Lead Guitarist, Nikon dSlr, Nikon 80-200 f/2.8, ISO-800, 1/25th

Their sponsor is Duvel (how great for a band right?) and this was a private concert, between intimitate friends to enjoy their music. Free drinks all night long made it even sweeter.

More on the south side of the equater…

(more…)

Mountains, Fresh Air & New Starts

Sunday, February 7th, 2010

Hi all!

I’m back from my ski trip in the French Alps with my friends, and had a blast!

I always find it fascinating how ‘massive’ mountains are. I know it sounds completely ridiculous, but I really feel that way.

Had the intention to shoot some jumps and stuff, but mother nature thought elsewise, and fed us up with some bad weather for a few days. Still managed to get some shots out though…

Shooting in the snow can be challenging, because snow messes with the camera’s white balance measure system. On my Nikon dSlr I used roughly these settings.

ISO : 200 (You’ll normally have PLENTY of light when shooting in the snow)

Aperture : f/9 most of the time, this gave me sharpness all over the place, really neat for catching flying snow

Shutterspeed: 1/1000 (since there’s a lot of light, you can get away with 1/1000 & f/9)

Metering : Matrix (This managed fine for my camera)

WB : Auto, EV +0,7

I shot everything on manual, to have complete control since it’s a tricky scene.

You have got to love those clear blue skies. I’m confident you can’t get the sky to look this nice in the city.

3 amigo’s of mine, climbing back up the jumping slopes. I forced them to do it, don’t worry ;)

I mostly shot 2 lenses. The Sigma 10-20 mm f/4-5.6 which offers incredible vantage points and the golden oldie Nikkor 35-105mm f/4.5-5.6.

I tried out my best friends’ new Nikon 55-200mm f/4.5-5.6 AF-S VR but although the quality of the glass is excellent, it’s too damn slow to work with.

I missed at least 20 shots that I hadn’t with the 55-200 due to painfully slow auto-focus issues.

I even did a small multiple exposure shot on the way back, but it’s definitely not finished yet. It’s really bad, but in my defense, it was made on a laptop trackpad (I know) in the back of a car ;)

Happy to be back, and ready to blog heavily again!

Cheers,

M

Gear is no substitute for Vision

Monday, January 25th, 2010

In this day and age where all kinds of photography accessories are made by all kinds of people, people often get lost in the forest of items.
Just this week I met someone who had just bought a Nikon D3 and was asking people online, what the best settings were for automatic shooting.
I kid you not.

I spend quite some time on online forums, twitter and all kinds of social media because there’s an incredible amount of stuff you can learn like that,
and one thing I notice often is that people whine about not having enough ‘gear’. Chase Jarvis calls ‘em Gearheads if i’m not mistaken.

Mario Testino is one the 5 most regarded and rewarded fashion photographers today and probably has shot everyone that’s anyone.
In this video, he shoots actress Jessica Biel for the february cover of Vogue US.

What struck me with this video, is the simplicity of the shoot. Keep in mind, these are shoots that usually cost thousands and thousands of dollars,
it’s Vogue US for god’s sake. However, if you take a look at the B&W shot the simplicity is striking. It’s just him and her (and the turtles, goats, etc…)
but there aren’t 5 Profoto strobes, 5 softboxes, etc… It’s just beautiful natural light, and the results are stunning.

I guess what I’m trying to say is that a photographer shouldn’t always be worried about not having the right gear, or not enough, etcetera etcetera.

Just adapt to the situation, bend the natural light, and in last resort, tend towards those accesories that you’ve brought with you.

Big ups,

M

New Year. New Challenges. New Successes. New Failures.

Sunday, January 17th, 2010

Hi y’all!

First of all, I’d like to welcome you to the new blog and wish you a happy new year. I know it’s late, but season greetings become a social faux-pas after the 31st of January, which we luckily haven’t passed yet.  As you’ve noticed, we’ve completely switched shops here. We used to be an all WordPress shop, with everything combined into one mainframe, but we’ve gone separate ways now.

We’ve divided the site into two categrories. The professional portfolio/photofolio powered by ProFolio. It’s open-source, freeware and it just rocks. It’s got everything any photographer would need, looks fancy, has an intuitive CMS based control panel and did I mention it was free? I don’t mind spending bucks to get good results, but why spend ‘em when you can get results like that for free? It’s fantastic.

The blog interface however still relies on the most popular and extensible backframe of WordPress. We’ve gone through a completely other interface/design and we like it. We’ve tried to unite the designs of the portfolio, the blog and my twitter page to provide an ‘ensemble’ that keeps you in the right frame of mind.

We’ve added functionality through a right-sided twitter board, a tag cloud, search box, etc…all the things that we missed with the old blog. We hope you like it.

We’ve also added upgraded iPhone functionality. The site should be completely viewable on your iPhone, without any distortion or weirdness whatsoever.

Keep in mind, that we’re constantly upgrading the site, and it’s still in it’s babyshoes for the moment :)

As far as New Year’s Resolutions go, we have some, but we most of all have some for you!

This year, the beginning of a new decade has to be spectacular that’s why we wish you (in no particular order) to do the following :

- Book that trip you’ve been wanting to book.
A lot of thing indicate that travelling will become more expensive in the near future and then return to it’s old fares, but in the meanwhile the forthcoming years it will be more expensive so you need to go to that place you’ve been wanting to go to. It’ll be great for your inspiration, and you might come home with some nice frames!

-Ask that girl/model you’ve been wanting to work with.
A lot of people I know are ‘afraid’ of asking a model (even if it isn’t a professional one) for a shoot. Don’t be. You might get turned down, but at least you’ll have an answer in stead of pining away in the corner. You might be surprised by the responses. A lot of people (and this includes non-pro models) don’t have nice pictures of them self. By that I mean pictures that have been thought out, etc…and they would most certainly love to be in front of your lens.

-Book that pro-model you’ve been wanting to work with.
Even if she is pro, than just book her and make some stunning images. It’s worth it.

-Save up for that accessory you’ve been dying to have.
A new softbox, an octabox or a beautydish? Save up for it!

-Buy that accessory you’ve been saving for.
When it’s time to buyu it, don’t beasle out and do it! You’ll thank yourself later on.

-Pick up that book you’ve been wanting to read and learn about new techniques.
Knowledge is power and in a day and age where dSlr’s are incredibly affordable you’ll have to stand out of the pack by knowing every inch of your material, and that comes by learning!

-Plan that shoot you’ve been dying to do.
Time to put said knowledge to the test and try out the tecniques! Plan a shoot completely. Book your models, book your MUA, scout a location, rent the gear. Plan everything, and then go over it again so you’re sure you haven’t missed a thing!

- Fill in with what you want to do in 2010!

There really aren’t limits to this list, and it’s up to you to fill it up. I’ve already accomplished my first task which was to set up and deploy the new portfolio, blog and twitter interface. What’s your challenge?

In the meantime, here’s a short video-résumé of y New Year’s Eve party. Yes, that is a paper backdrop that survived for about 15 minutes.

Music courtesy of Ghostland Observatory.

That’s a resumé of my newyear. I hope you had a blast as well, i certainly did. By the way, I’m the moron with the red pants and the inherent santa-claus syndrome that comes with a pair of the trousers.

Love to you all and a prosperous 2010,

Morgan

2 Quick Holiday Gifts

Wednesday, December 23rd, 2009

Hi folks,

Tomorrow, it’s Chritsmas’ eve and that means that hopefully gifts of all kinds are on their way!
If you’re like a bunch of people that I know and wake up the 23rd or (even worse) the 24th and think
‘Oh, crap , forgot to buy a gift’ than read on.

If you’re buying a gift for a photographer, or someone that does graphic work on a computer, these gifts will surely please them, and save you from  a holiday whoop down!

1. Wacom Bamboo Pen+Touch Graphic Tablet

Wacom is the Rolls Royce of graphic tablets. If the person you’re buying this gift for hasn’t got one, you’ll
probably change his life, and his workflow. These little tablets let you ‘paint’ on the job, which is a hell of a lot easier than clicking with your mouse repeatedly. It’s also way more accurate for retouching jobs, etc…

It’s also believed to fight RSI, which is something everyone who works regularly behind a computer should care about.
Best of all? It’s not even that expensive! It goes for about 89$ here

2. Expodisc

This little baby is the master at setting the right white balance for your camera and lens. It might not seem like much at first, but it diminishes your post-processing time a lot, since it automatically calibrates your white balance before shooting, to obtain perfect white balance. It’s a really neat gift, and I use it before everything I shoot. It just easily screws on, and you’re set!

It goes for about 50$ here

So, here are two gifts for all those of you who are kinda late with their presents but still want to make someone happy ;)

Merry Christmas!

M.

What to shoot when everything’s allready been shot (to hell) pt.1

Monday, December 21st, 2009

Travelling is fantastic. I know it’s a cliché, but it’s truer now than ever before.
With plane fares getting cheaper and cheaper, the world is getting smaller and smaller. Travel is getting more accessible, and it’s the best way to broaden your horizon.

Travelling is a great way to boost your inspiration when it’s down, to round up ideas, to eat in a foreign McDonalds, and to find compelling stories to portray in your pictures. But, when you eventually visit touristic hotspots,like NYC , Paris, London, fill in capital, and come home, people are going to want to see ‘the shot’.

The Shot doesn’t necessarily refer to your best shot, neither does it refer to that doubtful ‘reality-tv’ show presented by Conan, often it just means the photo of the most famous landmark In that city. For photographers, this might be kind of boring and/or disappointing., but it’s harsh reality.. Most people of your entourage, who aren’t into photography, won’t be pleased with the same artsy shot of the landmark, than the classic, misrepresented Hollywoodian idea.
Clubbing those people down with a chair is a social faux-pas, so try to avoid that. Besides, they might be good at something else that’s noteworthy. Like pottery. Don’t let this put you down though, because even if it’s for your own, go ahead and shoot that thing the way you want.

I’ll give a few tips of mine regarding these places that have been shot to death by so many photographers who marched before you did.

1. Shift your viewpoint.
I realize this might not exactly be what you expected, since it’s so obvious but it sure is a true one. Unless you are photographing the Mona Lisa, if you move around the landmark, you’ll get a different view, and thus a different image. Composition and framing are two very important things you need to pay attention to whilst shooting something from a different view. Pick up a book about it, or learn some rules as guidelines to help you with this.

2. Once you’ve learned the rules, break ‘em!
It’s the most fun of all. Once you learn about the rule of thirds etc…break ‘em. They’re called rules for something. You don’t want to be stuck with the same pictures all the times, and while the rules can help you sometimes, they can also restrain you. That’s actually what those little bastards will do most of the times. Club ‘em.

Reverse 1/3rd rule? Istanbul, Turkey. Nikon dSlr, 35-105mm, ISO 200, SanDisk Digital Film.

3. Include foreign objects into your frame.
Putting the famous landmark behind something that hasn’t got a thing to do with it can get you some interesting images. Try to be creative with your depth-of-field and play around with it a little.

Empire State Building, NYC, Nikon dSLR, Lexar Digital Film

4. Post process the hell out of it.
If there’s really no friggin’ way around it except shooting it from a dodgy Russian commercial spacecraft , shoot it with the back idea in your head that you’re going to post process it as hell. Give it all you got, try all your filters, blend it, twist it, liquify it. If it’s in your program, try it. Who knows, you might stumble on a lucky combination, or in the case you know what you’re doing, end up with what you wanted!

Nikon dSLR, Sigma 10-20 mm f/4.5-6, ISO 200, Sandisk Digital Film

5. Use a different accessory.
I’m thinking of lenses. Use the non-traditional lenses for traditional landmarks. Use ultra-wide angles, lensbabies, grad filters, custom settings,…again, this is a completely autonomous decision. I like to use ultra-wide angles for thin object. Models etc…

This is the first part of this 2 part article, stay tuned for updates!

Cheers,

Morgan

New York, New York

Tuesday, November 17th, 2009

Hi all!

Finally caught up with the postprocessing work I had to do, and some time to write is here!

About three weeks ago, I was in New York for about a week. Saw some crazy things, met some even crazier people. What an incredible city, I think I can honestly say I’m in love with the big apple.

Something did strike whilst being there : there are so many interesting and various things to photograph. I’m not talking about the shot-to-death-tourist things, like the Statue of Liberty, or NYSE but just simple, everyday stuff that’s beautfully shown in this town.

Due to the amount and the variety of neighborhoods, districts, and ‘towns’ you get a complete change of scenery depending on where you’re walking. Whether it’d be in the trendy SoHo, cultural Chinatown or massive midtown, what you see varies greatly and therefore offers you an immense array of photographic opportunities. In a city this large, there’s always something to shoot.

The thing is, when you’re at the point where you can’t avoid to shoot the things everyone at home wants to see because otherwise they’ll club you to death, in order not to take good ‘ol (boring) pictures of it, try to be creative. This is an advice I follow each time, and it pays off most of the time.

Shoot the details! Aside from shooting the obvious landmark, shoot a detail that reflects the thing clearly, but that doesn’t show it. People will have that uneasy second of ‘why is that moron shooting a street sign?’ and then they’ll go ‘Oooh. That’s why.’ Try to imagine the grin on your face

DSC_5156

Look Up! Some of the most interesting details are often located above head-level, which is why you miss ‘em quite often. Shifting your head those extra 45 degrees can produce incredible images, because they’re the ones most people simply ignore.

0028

Incorporate a new item in your scenery! Putting ‘the most important thing’ on the second place might produce an interesting image, because it won’t strike you as ‘that obvious’ put it’ll still be the picture of ‘the famous thing she saw in that movie’ and thus making everyone happy. It’s also a challenge to your compositing eye!

0062

Try that new lens you bought. Especially if it’s a wide angle lens, like the ones we’ve discussed in an earlier thread. Those lenses really make their money’s worth when you visit a city that has prominent building and skyscrapers every friggin’ corner. They’re also incredible to use within majestic buildings like churches…

0034

Shoot Macro. Although this might look like a misplaced tip, it’s really not. Macro can give you some splendid results, if you combine them with the details tip I gave you. Macro narrows your depth-of-field so much, that it really emphasizes on a subject/object’s properties, like in this case a Jackson Pollock painting at the MOMA.

0079

So, these we’re a few pointers for shooting in a city. The thing you’ve always got to keep in mind, is that shooting in a city is always a challenge towards yourself to excel in composition, adaptation and creativity. It’s a great way to recharge your creative batteries, meet new and interesting people and get reboosted for doing the thing you love most.

Cheerz,

M.

When Digital Fails You

Thursday, November 5th, 2009

computer_crash_again

It had to happen. It just did. You hear about other’s stories, predicaments and mad rants about it, and hope to God you won’t have the same bad luck, but deep within yourself you just know it’s a matter of time before it strikes you as well.

And it never strikes at the good moment, it’s always when you want it the least. Classic Murphy.
I’m talking about one of the drawbacks of relying mainly on digital hardware for your photography.

2 weeks ago I was in New York. Evidently I brought the dSlr along, with some CF-cards, Speedlight, the usual gear to take some shots. After the second day, for a reason that’s still unknown to me I switch the CF-card that was in my camera for another, empty one. I thought it felt sluggish, a touch non-responsive, but really nothing mindboggling. I could see the pictures fine on the back of the camera and they looked great to me.

I end up shooting the rest of the trip on that second card, and get home in Belgium well.
Once I recovered from the jetlag I decided to empty my cards on my laptop and start with the one that was still in my camera. 260 NEF-transfers later the second card was empty, and Lightroom filled up with the New York Skyline. I hop the first card into my card reader and then disaster strikes.

It makes all kinds of funny noises, and then comes the prompt. ‘This card is corrupt and unreadable. Please format it before use.’ Your heart starts pumping, your blood vessels open up and you feel your fingers tingle. Moisty hands ahead y’all !

Okay, might be a reading error, don’t freak. I retry it in the cardreader, and retry from the camera hooked up to the laptop. Nada.

‘Knock, knock. Who’s there? Murphy’.

I immediately open up Google and type ‘Photo Recovery Software’. 138.000 hits. Greaaat.
Narrowed it down to 2 I tried essential software’s.
-SanDisk RescuePro (free with Extreme cards, otherwise purchase)
6t5thz8

-WinRecovery CardRecovery (28€)

I gather all my courage and boot up CardRecovery. He starts scanning and about an hour later the results show up. Found over a 1,000 files. Great! Right? I start looking over what the card found, and amongst the pictures were pictures of past holidays, other shoots, and the NYC photos. I think I’m saved until I look at the specifications of the picture. Image Dimensions : 128×128 & File Size : 43,3 Kb
It’s even worse than not getting anything back, because now I know there are some residues left of those photos on the card, but they’re just fragments. I try to open up the NEF’s (which were the right filesize) in Photoshop CS4 but again an error. I’m starting to lose my cool, but manage to regain my composure.

CardRecovery failed me so I switch over to SanDisk’s RescuePro software. If you use like my, Sandisk Extreme IV CF-Card’s, you get a this software with your memorycard. I install it, boot it up and scan the card. An hour later again, I look over the results and they look a helluvalot better.
RescuePro managed to get back approximatively the same amount of pictures, but most importantly : IT RECOVERED MY PICTURES!

The freaky thing though is that it recovered the NYC pictures in JPG format. I shot everything in RAW so I don’t know where it got those JPG’s, but it’s better than nothing. They appeared to be shot in JPG BEST FINE so the quality was more than acceptable.

I’m going to share a couple of tips with you on how to avoid this little encounter with Murphy because frankly, there’s nothing more frustrating than coming home after shooting and discovering you’ve been doing it for nothing!

Memorycards operate in the same way as books do. Your individual photos are the pages, and just like in a book there’s a Table of Contents (TOC). When you plug in your card to your pc, or your camera, the first thing it’ll do is try to look up the TOC to see what’s filled on your card.

About 70% of corrupted memorycards are due to a damaged TOC which means your computer assumes the card is empty since it can’t read the TOC and therefore demands you to format the card (which is the last thing you should do)
However ! The fact of the matter is that your photos are STILL there! There’s just no way to look ‘em up due to the faulty TOC.

Recovery software like Sandisk’s get past the faulty TOC and just retrieve all the data on the card, so you can do with it whatever you wish.

Corrupted databases can occur due to several things that you can easily avoid :
-Avoid shooting with a empty battery, if for your camera shuts off whilst writing to your memorycard it could cause this problem

-Although you camera indicated how much space there’s left on the card to the shot accurately, I like to leave a margin of about 5-10 shots. Why? Memorycards contain information about previous photos even if you think you’ve formatted them, and that info eats up space so if for some reason your last shot overwrites a ‘ghost’ file, and jams the whole thing up it might crash your card.

-Use high speed cards for high speed photography. If you often shoot sports, or anything that requires sequences of numerous images shot in full burst you better get a card that’s up to the task (at least x133 speeds). If you shoot bursts and the card can’t follow, it’ll start writing over it’s own photos and you’ll end up with half-and-half shots.

-Format in between shoots. However, as I’ve noticed it’s not bulletproof, but it’s better than nothing. I format my card each time I shoot something new but as you’ve read in my story, it’s not bulletproof.

-Cards are still mechanical things, they look simple from the outside but they most certainly aren’t, and sometimes they just break. Most pro-cards like the Sandisk Ultra IV have about 500,000 write/read cycles which is plenty. Other cards can have more or less, but it’s something to keep in mind. Better to spend a couple of bucks on a new card, than to overuse an old one, and end up losing all your pictures.

-If you’re uncertain about the quality of your external card reader, use the in-camera USB transfer option. Some, cheaper models of external card readers can damage CF-cards.

-Back Up your work regularly. This is more something for your computer but computers aren’t the most reliable of things again. Back up your work very regularly. It’s a pain in the ass when you have to do, but you’ll love yourself afterwards if you ever come to be in the position where you lose all your stuff. I back all my photos up to 2 external hard drives. Works like a charm.
Check out the Drobo, which is a great backup solution!

Good evenin’ Guys!

M.

The LookBook

Monday, August 17th, 2009

Hi all!

Today I’m uploading the first (of what I hope a great number) video for the site. In my precious post about keeping in touch with your work i mentioned the significance of having a LookBook. I started getting mails, comments and twitter messages about this “lookbook-thingy”.

I had been wanting to make a video for the site for a long time, and this seemed to be the perfect occasion, so here we are.( also a great song by bloc party)
It’s short, but there’s not an immense amount of things to say about it, so if you have questions remaining, don’t hesitate to comment/mail/twit about it.

Also, you might have noticed, I’m doing minor upgrades to the side, like a site logo, which is the little icon you see left of the URL bar in your browser. Nothing fancy,but I like it.

Cheerz,

Morgan

Using lenses creatively

Tuesday, July 7th, 2009

Most lenses photographers use have a particular form of usage and function according to their length, depth-of-field or f/stops. This has the negative throwback of those lenses being categorized as ‘unusable’ in other situations than the one’s the lens was ‘made for’. This however, is completely preposterous.

One of these lenses are the wide angle lenses, more particularly the UWA’s or Ultra-Wide Angle Lenses. These lenses offer an extreme viewpoint, incorporating the most in your picture. Landscape and architecture photographers cherish these lenses as they allow their users to capture an immense scenery, much bigger than say a 50mm or 105mm lens. Sport photographers will embrace fast, long telephoto lenses so they can get in on the action.

Nikon and Sigma offer superb UWA’s, a 10-20mm & a 12-24 mm respectively. This is one of the rare lenses of Sigma i’ll choose over the Nikon alternative (or is it the other way around?) Why? Simply put, it has those 2 extra mm’s which you crave for when shooting wide.

Nikon12-24mmWA_lg

Lately I had to shoot a group portrait. The thing with group portraits is that usually since you have to incorporate a large number of people into 1 single shot, you don’t get a chance to embrace the surrounding. If you’re shooting on a backdrop in a studio there’s no need to, because of the plain backdrop but when you have an amazing set, it’s always nice.

Sigma_10-20mm-001

This is where a UWA or WA comes in handy. Why doesn’t everyone use them then? Well, simply put because there are some issues to it, which can be avoided if used correctly.

One of the things to look out for is distortion. The thing with an UWA is that due to the immense scale of sight, you’re bound to encounter some amount of distortion, mostly around the edges. Try to center your subjects within your frame to stay clear of distortions,and you’ll be on your way.

Same goes for portraits. If you talk to another photographer about portraits, one of the lenses (before reading this post ;) ) that probably wouldn’t come into the discussion is a lens like Sigma’s 10-20 or Nikon’s 12-24. I think it was Joe McNally that said ‘Shoot wide and push in tight’. The man was absolutely right. When you do this, you’ll be able to capture the environment as well as the person you’re supposed to shoot. This works GREAT for enviromental pictures.

wide-angle

Nikon dSLR, Sigma 10-20mm f/4-5.6 at 10mm, ISO 200, f/8 .

You can clearly see here, how all these people are included in the frame, besides the environment which make for a great photo, without any distortion.

So next time you have to shoot something, and grab for the lens you normally would use, take a peek at all the other one’s in your bag screaming ‘pick me, pick me’. You might end up suprised and with a fantastic photo to show for.

Cheerz,

M.